Cross Cut Sled

In the process of building my bookcase I destroyed my cross cut sled. So I think a new one is on my immediate build list.

What features do you have on yours that you think I should incorporate on mine?

Thanks!

6 Responses to “Cross Cut Sled”

  1. Jim Crockett says:

    I have been looking at redoing my crosscut sled, as well. One feature that I’d like to incorporate is a replaceable insert for both the platform and the fence. Haven’t given it much thought as of yet but I’m sure it’s doable. My existing sled is fairly small as I do mostly small projects and don’t need anything very large. I think I’ll stick to that size. Double runners for the miter slots. Actually, what would really be helpful is removable inserts to allow for both 90 and 45 degree cuts.

    Jim

  2. rick french says:

    I haven’t built it yet, but this is what I have in mind. A two runner sled at least 24 inches deep for wider panels, and 3 to 4 feet wide for stability. Front fence will be at least 4 inches high at the saw blade, probably shorter (3 inches) on either side so I can handle it and still have room to hold clamps. Back fence probably 4 inches high at the blade and 2 inches on either side to reduce weight. I know this will be a monster and probably heavy to move around, but when it is on the table, the weight won’t matter that much (I hope).
    For short cuts, a stop block will be clamped to the front fence. For cuts longer than the fence I will have a long extension with a stop at the bottom edge. This will be 4 feet long (I can make a longer one for longer cuts if I need one). Once I determine where the cut will be made, I will place the work piece cut mark at the saw curf and pull the stop on the extension against the end of the work piece and clamp it against the sled fence.

    I had a single runner sled that went with a smaller saw I just gave to my son-in-law (gave him the saw and sled since it was made for that saw). It was 24 by 24 with only the front fence. It was light and easy to maneuver, and used it FOR EVERYTHING. Panel width was not limited by the back fence, and I cut a 30 inch panel with no problem. I will probably make another one like it for my new saw.

  3. roger says:

    I’ve got 1/4″ hardboard replaceable inserts in my xcut sled. when they get chewed up, just replace those. I also added a stop block that is attached to the underside of the sled, and to the left side of the table saw top. With these, I never have to worry about the blade coming completely through the back. (I do have the back beefed up where the blade is located).

  4. Dale Smith says:

    Brian,
    I am currently using a quickly-built version of the Super Sled that will also soon be replaced. Features that are important to me are:
    Replaceable insert. Sled base is 3/4″ BB ply so I’ll rabbet both the base and insert for a snug fit. Multiple inserts will be made at the same time the sled is built.
    Adjustable rear fence, at least for initial assembly. It’s going to be square!
    Stops as Roger mentioned.
    Measuring tape on top for the stops.
    Rocker T-slot rails for hold-downs in both base and for rear fence
    Capable of holding my spline-cutting jig.
    Two replaceable miter-slot rails. I use Oak rails set in 1/8″ dados in the base.

  5. AJ Peck says:

    Question. Since I have a Radial Arm Saw, I’m trying to see the benefits of making a cross-cut sled for use on the Table Saw. The only one I can think of is for pieces taller than the elevation of the RAS blade.

    • GarageWoodworks says:

      That’s a great question. I don’t own a RAS and I’ve actually never used one so I don’t know what I’m missing out on. If I could make a RAS I would do it and compare the two. 🙂

      I’m willing to bet that if you made a sled (couple hours of work) that you would find uses for it.

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