My homemade spline jig for the table saw.
Great for making picture frames.
The base of the jig rides against the table saw fence.
A sliding cross-cut sled for the table saw.
I realized I needed one of these after watching David Marks on tv.
Tenon jig. Rides against the table saw fence. Works like a charm.
This jig rarely gets used anymore. I mostly use floating or loose
tenons for all my projects.
Split fence for the router table. Once loosened, the left and
right side of the fence can slide to adjust the size of the opening. The
fence is attached
to the table saw fence.
Evolution of a Mortise Fixture
Mortise fixture 1.0
This jig is used to make loose tenon joinery with
my plunge router (Porter
Cable, PC-8529) and an edge guide.
I use an carbide up-cut spiral bit and
an edge guide
on the router.
Mortise fixture 2.0
I added a toggle clamp and a fence.
Mortise fixture 3.0
I added a top support from 3/4" plywood with a 3/4" slot routed in.
Pictures to the left show the jig with a walnut board clamped in
place.
Planer/Jointer Blade Sharpening Jig
Home-made planer/jointer knife sharpening jig. Made from a piece of
maple that was face jointed and edge jointed. Metal mending clips
were bent and are used to hold the knife in place. Two nails are
used to consistently position the knife from the front edge of the jig.
A screw positioned in the middle is used to control the required bevel
angle.
In this picture I have a 12" planer knife in the jig. It can
also hold my 6" jointer knives.
Wet dry sand paper is used to get the edge by moving forward and
backward in small movements. To prevent the screw from eroding,
place a piece of tape on the sandpaper in the path of the screw.
I recently have found that you can also use a
jointer blade hone on the planer knife while it is held securely in
the jig. This operation would be impossible to perform with the
blades in my planer, or hand held (ouch!).
The small nails (or
screws) prevent the jig from rocking
forward and backward during use.
The tool is first zeroed using a 90° reference.
Use a good quality square on a flat surface (granite
surface plate or your table saw top will work here) to zero the tool.
Once the tool is zeroed, I can quickly and
accurately set the table saw blade to 90°.
The main advantage to using this jig is SPEED.
Accuracy just comes along for the ride.
If you use a square to align the blade, you need to
bend over in front of the saw and squint for light in between the blade
and the square or use feeler gauges (either way this method is a PITA).
(UNPLUG your table saw BEFORE aligning your blade)
In this picture I am
setting my jointer fence to 90°.
I have since replaced the ugly nails with small screws!
Very subtle movements in the angle of the blade
produce huge movements in the dial (very sensitive).