Archive for the ‘How to’ Category

Scraper Sharpening: New Method

Saturday, November 21st, 2015

See the demo video

I use my card scrapers quite a bit. From removing mill marks, scratches/defects and even removing finish.

One of the things that I constantly delay is sharpening my card scrapers; it’s a chore. I think part of the problem was my method for sharpening. So after a little thought I came up with a different way to create the burr on the edge of the scraper by using a little piece of scrap wood.

Burnisher Tool:

The hole for the burnisher I created was 3/8″, which was the diameter of my burnisher.  The rabbet I created in the burnisher tool probably isn’t really necessary. Originally I was going to have the hole for the burnisher closer to the inside of the rabbet. The ledge created by the rabbet would then create a nice ramp for the scraper to ride on before making contact with the burnisher. This will make more sense after watching the video.


Warping and Waiting

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2015

When I first started woodworking it was usually on the weekends because that’s when I had the most time (like most people).  So, when I started a project on a weekend, it might not be until the following weekend before I could work on it again.  Very early on in my quest to be a woodworking Jedi (a path I hope I am still on – but one I don’t really expect to reach) I noticed that if pieces sat for a few days that they would warp.  Naturally, this made me panic every time I started a new project to get everything assembled as quickly as possible.  This, unfortunately, wasn’t very enjoyable.  So, I asked around to find out what other woodworkers do to keep everything flat without freaking out.  What I found out was that with careful milling (assuming your stock is adequately dry), the warping can be significantly reduced and you can assemble more at your leisure.  In practice, this appears to hold water.  What is careful milling?  When planing stock at the planer (thicknesser for those across the pond) one should be careful not to remove too much from one side only.  This has the dramatic effect of reducing warp.  Another thing I do, when it’s appropriate and fitting to the project, is to leave my material as thick as possible.  By not planing to a pre-determined thickness I’ll simply stop when both faces are flat and smooth.  I’ve found that the thicker the board, the less prone it is to warp.  And from a physics stand-point, this makes sense.  One factor that also seems to influence warping, and one that can’t be eliminated by careful milling, is the length of the component.  For example, the longer a rail the more prone it is to warp with prolonged standing – in my experience.

Now I don’t worry about warping like I used to; I can usually prevent it from happening to any significant amount.  I’ve waited as long as two weeks to assemble a large project with no warping troubles.

Relax!  This is supposed to be fun.

**Edit:  Stickering your milled lumber also helps to prevent warping.  I always sticker my lumber after milling (place sticks between boards to allow adequate air exposure on both faces).

Dovetail Slides

Tuesday, September 9th, 2014

I’m a big fan of sliding dovetails for drawer slides.  The main advantage, in my opinion, is that they eliminate the need for a drawer kicker.  That is, the dovetailed drawer slide prevents the drawer from tipping when extended.  They are fairly easy to make and in my next video release of the G&G desk build, I will show my method of doing this.  The idea of using a sliding dovetail for a drawer slide is certainly not my idea or novel, but I might have my own take on the process.