Archive for the ‘How to’ Category

Plans

Tuesday, June 10th, 2014

When offering free plans, is a SketchUp file enough? This is the quickest and easiest way for me to give out plans, but I’m curious if this is enough for most people? I assume that, for some, it would depend on the complexity of the project, but for a table or small project is it enough?

With the SketchUp file you have access to all of the project dimensions which are critical components to any build. You can also turn the project design in three dimensions in order to fully visualize the piece.

When I offer plans for sale I always provide detailed plans along with the SketchUp file but I don’t always have the time to do this for my freebies.

What are your thoughts?

Drawer Pulls

Saturday, May 24th, 2014
I don’t own a lathe, so when I found out about this process for making a drawer pull using a drill press I was all over it.  I used a flat rasp, 3/8″ diameter rasp and a tenon cutter.  It was very easy to do and was actually pretty fun at the same time.

Planer snipe

Monday, May 12th, 2014

I recently received a question from a viewer of the show and I thought I’d share the question and answer here.

The question went something like this (edited) : “I have the same planer and I get snipe at the end and beginning all the time. I read many reviews saying this planer has little snipe compared to other ones but I still get enough to annoy me and I don’t like to waste wood. Do you get any snipe?”

Photo credit: linked from FineWoodworking.com

 

My answer:

Unfortunately and admittedly, I get snipe almost every time. I noticed that I can reduce the amount, (not eliminate) by taking very fine cuts toward the end of the dimensioning process.  On faces where snipe would cause a problem, like joinery, I always keep the planed face away from the joinery and put the jointed face in.  By jointed face, I am referring to the face that was jointed flat at the jointer; you could also use a hand plane for the same purpose.  Sometimes it is necessary to plane both faces; for example when removing a lot of material (to prevent bowing, twisting).  In that case I will plane both faces until I get close to my required thickness then create another face jointed side. Finally, I will plane the opposite face to the final thickness by putting the face jointed side down in the planer (thicknesser).  I never put a sniped face where joinery will go because this will most likely cause gaps.

A different approach, that I am not fond of, is to use a board length that will allow you to cut off any snipe after planning.  This method wastes wood and for that reason I don’t like it.