Homemade Woodworking
Jigs/Fixtures and Tools
 
Table Saw Jigs and Fixtures
  • My homemade spline jig for the table saw. 
  • Great for making picture frames.
  • The base of the jig rides against the table saw fence.
  • A sliding cross-cut sled for the table saw. 
  • Watch a video on how I square the fence.
  • Tenon jig.  Rides against the table saw fence.  Works like a charm.  This jig rarely gets used anymore.  I mostly use floating or loose tenons for all my projects.
  • Split fence for the router table.  Once loosened, the left and right side of the fence can slide to adjust the size of the opening. The fence is attached to the table saw fence.
   
   
Mortise Fixture
  • Mortise fixture 4.0
  • There is an adjustable stop on both sides of the face for easy repeatability.
  • I use an carbide up-cut spiral bit and an edge guide on the router.
  • See a video of this jig in action.
   
   
Planer/Jointer Blade Sharpening Jig
  • DIY planer/jointer knife sharpening jig. 
  • See a video of this jig in action.
 
 
  • Buy plans for my new and improved Planer/Jointer Knife Sharpening Jig!
  • The following is included for $5.95 in a Zip file:
  • Google Sketch-Up file
  • Dimensions
  • Instructions
  • After your purchase unzip the file and open Planer-Jointer-Knife-Jig.html with your browser.

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Table Saw and Jointer Fence Alignment Jig
  • The tool is first zeroed using a 90° reference.  Use a good quality square on a flat surface (granite surface plate or your table saw top will work here) to zero the tool.
  • Once the tool is zeroed, I can quickly and accurately set the table saw blade to 90°.
  • The main advantage to using this jig is SPEED.  Accuracy just comes along for the ride.
  • If you use a square to align the blade, you need to bend over in front of the saw and squint for light in between the blade and the square or use feeler gauges (either way this method is a PITA).
  • (UNPLUG your table saw BEFORE aligning your blade)
  • In this picture I am setting my jointer fence to 90°.
  • I have since replaced the ugly nails with small screws!
  • Very subtle movements in the angle of the blade produce huge movements in the dial (very sensitive).
   
   
Godzilla the Horizontal Slot Mortiser
   
   
Chisel Plane (DIY Shoulder Plane)
  • A shoulder plane that uses a chisel as the plane iron.
  • See a video of the construction.
  • An angled notch was created for the chisel and wedge.
  • If you'd like to make your own, Ii've included the dimensions.
  • Don't forget to watch the build video.
 
 
   
   
Circle Cutting Jig
  • The jig is fully adjustable and can adjust to any circle radius (mine can do any radius less than 25").
  • Close up of the bolt and nut that rides in the track.
  • Close up of the pin and support blocks.
   
   
Do you have any jig comments/suggestions/questions?

1-6 of 49 Comments
Subject: chisel plane

thanks for an excellent demo of what i need to do.

gravatar chuck heck – greenville,pa.
October 29, 2011 - 02:18PM
Subject: Circle Jig Question

Brian,

Near the beginning of your video for the circle cutting jig, you said you were going to cut a 4 in. Radius circle. I have watched the video a few times and I just don't see how you control the size of the circle. Is the circle determined by the size of the material to be cut, or is there a measurement along the length of the jig that you may have failed to mention?

Thanks in adance for advice in this matter,

Jim S.

gravatar Jim Severson – Richmond VA
October 08, 2011 - 10:52PM
Subject: Bandsaw Circle-Cutting Jig

Brian,

Thanks for the professional quality videos and the website. It is a great resource for other woodworking enthusiasts! And, thank you for keeping your explanations clear and thorough and the selection of the projects and tools at a reasonable level so that all level woodworkers can benefit (including a beginner such as myself).

I would like to build the circle-cutting jig and I do have couple of questions, if you would kindly answer:

1-Can you provide some measurements or sketches of the jig (even if they are not elaborate)?

2-What type of screw or bolt do you use to tighten the pivot block and the support block to the runner? (a picture would be great if possible)

Thanks,

Eddie

gravatar Eddie
June 07, 2011 - 01:24PM
Reply to Eddie
Subject: Re: Bandsaw Circle-Cutting Jig

Thanks for taking the time to comment!

The bolt used in the circle jig is a 'flat head' bolt that is counter sunk. After I finish my bookcase project I plan on creating a SketchUp file of the jig.

If you'd like, you can register with the website and when I finish the SketchUp file you'll be notified.

Cheers!
Brian

gravatar GarageWoodworks
June 07, 2011 - 02:43PM
Reply to Eddie
Subject: Re: Bandsaw Circle-Cutting Jig

Brian,

Looking at the last pictures posted on the circle cutting jig, it looks like there is hex bolt on one side of the support block running into the t-track and a flat-head screw on the other side of the block?! How does this work? How does tightening the screw cause the bolt to tighten in the track and hold it in place? Would you please explain what type and size of nut the countersunk flat-head screw is attached to? In other words, what type of nut is inserted into the t-track that accepts the threads from the flat head screw from the support block. Is that a 3/4" or 5/8" t-track?

Also, would it matter if the long support piece (the bar without the t-track slot that is used for clamping on the back ) is attached to the left side rather than the right side of the slotted piece? The reason for that is that the 14" Powermatic bandsaw with a riser does not have clearance for clamping on that side of the table as yours does. Even the commercially jig (Carter's AccuRight Circle cutting jig) requires removing the filler plate from the saw in order to be able to clamp the jig.

Your response and directions on this would be greatly appreciated.

Eddie

gravatar Eddie
June 10, 2011 - 01:51PM
Reply to Eddie
Subject: Re: Bandsaw Circle-Cutting Jig

Eddie - Tightening the screw causes the bolt to climb and put pressure on the top edge of the T-track (from the inside). I think after you make it things will fall into place for you. The T-track is home-made and the T is wide enough for the 3/8" hex bolt to slide. The nut is 3/8" wide.

It shouldn't matter which side the support piece is attached too.

-Cheers
Brian

gravatar GarageWoodworks
June 10, 2011 - 02:49PM
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